Leaving Port Augusta and heading for Ceduna

I travelled from Port Augusta to Penong which was 540km from Port Augusta. I detoured 100kms to Streaky Bay which was indeed a Bay but didn’t really interest me to stay. It was a lovely day quite a bit of wind, easterlies which can have an affect on petrol consumption. Not too much traffic on the road. I settled in with my CDs going and reflection on life, the universe and everything.

I made my way out of Port Augusta to the Eyre Highway 1, heading west. The roads are very straight and no overtaking lanes or big service stations. It was lovely to drive into the country I really felt again the love of moving through this land. The land appeared to be desert then pastoral lands. It stretches out flat to the horizon, you see occasional mountains with beautiful patches of red. I drove past Iron Knob I noticed the mountains were open cut, at first the red ore colour looked great then I realized it was mining and was less attracted. Wikipedia states Iron ore was originally mined here for use as flux in the copper smelting industry. The iron ore was of such high quality that it started an iron smelting industry as well. It is referred to as the birth place of the steel industry in Australia. It gets its name for the fact that it has a large amount of iron ore and was a major contributor to Australia’s iron industry.

I drove on past changing scenery of small salt bushes, to pine trees, to gums, open flat plains for wheat. There are lots of wheat silo’s all along this stretch of country. It is arable land yet patches seemed like desert to me.

I stopped in a town called Kimba. I didn’t feel in a hurry, grabbed a coffee and did some reading on earth changes. The owners of the shop seemed like country folk, maybe not to interested in the world or passersby, I felt peace with that. Then I felt to have a little walk, I saw an op shop and just mozied on in there for fun. I saw a lovely old lady and said hello and she responded, I then said how are you and she stopped and chatted. Turned out she had lived in Kimba since she was 5 years old. I said to her ‘you must have seen a lot of changes’, she nodded. She said she remembered when it was dirt track all through here. She said Port Lincoln is nice. We spoke about life and I told her my life she was quite fascinated and reported ‘you are traveling alone’. I said yes it is part of my peace work as I wish to work on inner peace and security. I said it has been a great experience. I told her my views on life and that I do feel people are good, yes there are some that are problematic but in my experience people are good. She and I really connected and she said to me ‘I will think of you crossing the Nullabor’. I said goodbye to her and she made a point to say it a few times. I went up and gave her a nice gentle hug. I then said goodbye. She had said to me ‘most people just say hello they don’t have an intelligent conversation.’ She said ‘I really enjoyed speaking with you’. I felt that was the reason I went into that op shop, wasn’t about buying anything it was about meeting her. I watch where life takes me and who I meet and what transpires, life continually fascinates me.

I drove out and stopped at the IGA supermarket grabbed some cheese and butter for lunch on the road. I met the shop assistant who served me, she had all these gold chains on and we chatted about symbols and how so many people have tattoos these days. She says she loves butterflies. I said ‘you should see my car it has a butterfly on the bonnet and near the windows.’ I told her they glow in the dark. No-one will ever steal my car, it looks too girly and the police would spot it immediately. With that she wished me well on my trip and off I went back onto the Eyre highway.

I passed a few road trains on the way. I thought of the life of truck drivers and how much sitting they do but also the freedom of driving. I turned off the Eyre Highway and headed to Streaky Bay, it was 61km’s off the road to Ceduna, so a detour. I felt to go to the ocean, just wanted to see if the coastline was worth looking at. I saw huge sand dunes at one point, but not easy to visit. I headed into the town and it was quite a pretty town. A long jetty you could walk on and around the Bay. I didn’t feel to find a caravan park and decided to head to Ceduna.

Ceduna was around 100km from there so I just traveled along. Sadly I hit a small lizard, I tried to avoid it but it was squashed. You see them scurry across the road, my first death. I felt sad about it but nothing I can do. I am in a car and it is not always possible to avoid them. I did try and swerve past a kangaroo carcass and noted I nearly went over the centre line, a car was coming. I made a mental note to be careful with venturing onto the other side of the road.

I was pretty tired but pushed on. Stopped at a small service station the prices vary of course. In Port Augusta yesterday the price was $1.38 per litre, I saw prices of $1.58 and saw $1.47 which I decided to go with. The petrol had 10% ethanol which I prefer anyway. I wish it was 100% ethanol, but that is the way of the world right now. I spoke to the folks inside and my card didn’t work first swipe. They said I’d have to do the dishes, I said I don’t mind. Nice country ladies running the store, very friendly. You notice that with most country people, they do seem happy in the country. That is a good sign. I do feel financially it is tricky though. These towns would be supported by the grain industry I am guessing as there are quite a few silos in each town. Also tourists doing the run to Perth would be a source of income. Outside of that I am thinking farming.

I soldiered on and got to Ceduna and pulled into the Airport Caravan Park. I noticed the owner was a bit detached and not to interested. He said I could have a powered or unpowered site for $20. He didn’t have a map to show me facilities. I had to ask where things were. He wasn’t too interested. The winds were very high. I tried twice to put up my tent with no luck. Anyway in the end I got a refund, he indicated they had Cabins for $60 per night but that was too much, I just told him I will just drive. I thought maybe I drive to Eucla another 460 km’s away, it would mean driving across the Nullabor at night and there maybe kangaroos, although I hadn’t noticed any dead ones on the road, good sign. My mum rang me whilst driving so that was nice whilst I had a Telstra pocket to talk. She was upset with my step mother (married to my father) interfering in our family and had a fight. So she was feeling angry when she rang. She calmed down after a while and laughed and I just told her where I was. We then lost mobile contact.

I drove on and came across Penong a small town, my feeling was to camp there. So I pulled in and met the lady. Nice old house had a good vibe. I spoke to the manager there she was really lovely. We clicked. She told me it was $18 per night and explained the facilities. I told her about the previous caravan park, she said there were issues with that caravan park. We talked about kindness. I said to her I was thinking about that as I drove away, he wasn’t interested nor did he show many any amenities just an attitude of false civility it seemed. I was also mindful of my judgement of him and just sat with that. She told me about a confidence guy who turned up at the caravan park who had said he had walked from some place, she said it didn’t exist. He said he was traveling the world, walking and he wanted free accommodation. She checked him out and it turned out he was traveling with a couple of guys in a campervan and they were seeking freebies. She and I talked about values and how important it is to just be kind, even if a little bit. I don’t think people realize what difference it makes. But I guess I just acknowledge that people might not be happy and it shows, it is not personal in truth.

Anyway, I set up my tent so a cyclone couldn’t lift it. It was still windy but manageable. I realized I had left my hammer and rolled up foam matt. I reflected on my emotions at the last place, I was getting frustrated. I thought about how my emotions was the reason I left my stuff. Instead of just being in the moment and gently smiling at the tent coming down twice, and being curious about what next, I found myself grumpy as I had expectations. So just took that on board. I am working on peace, so have to observe my own strong minded nature. At this new caravan park it was better and I organized my dinner and went to a large shed. There was a gas BBQ. I met two young people who had started cycling from Port Augusta and heading to Eucla and beyond. They weren’t experienced cyclists so I kind of encouraged them to take it easy, not to get an injury. They were from Scotland and England. Really nice young people. We talked about travelling and the freedom of that. Then an older couple I’d seen before came over to cook. They were from Albany and both into environmental issues. They were in their 60’s and not quite retired but doing work for free, investigating water quality. They had driven to Brisbane to see their two married daughters. They used the trip as an excuse to check out river systems. I thought of the Murray and the high degree of salinity and patchy management. They spoke of sporadic management but not an overall approach. They were interested in the environment. The wife, Geraldine was a scientist and Steve also had worked in the environmental area. They were doing their own study for free, they said grants were becoming less available, they are just following their passion. Just imagine if everyone did. So it was great to meet them. I spoke of the integration of peace values in order to evoke environmental awareness. In other words the more peaceful we are inside, the less likely we are to want more things as our joy comes from within. Geraldine spoke of the spiritual life, she mentioned they were Christians. I’ve met quite a few on this trip. I confirmed the spiritual dimension as I see it as very important for finding the harmony with nature and for me it is reconnecting with the energy of love, love of self and the world. The natural world is a harmonic system that adapts and is extremely sensitive. I’ve noticed that particularly in arid parts of Australia. Nature finds its balance always. The challenge in these times is for humans to find balance and that is peace. I see the environmental crisis about human’s finding their true nature, as we must come into harmony with nature, we can’t bend it to our wills.

We had a really great chat and I could see Steve was a philosopher. He was a tall well built man in his 60’s. They both were very vital and keen to get into life. I see this so many times with people over 60. You could say for some life starts then, when they escape the rat race and get going.

Took me a while to sleep but eventually did. I had done a lot of driving. I woke up very early around 5am and then heard sprinkles of rain. I didn’t mind thought I’ll sleep or get up. Had a little sleep and awoke around 6.30. I then lay there for an hour listening to others packing up. I then decided to get moving. Packed everything into my car, always a magic trick. Anyway after a little frustration got there and had a coffee.

I took off and around 20 minutes later on the Eyre highway I saw the Scottish guy John and his partner. They were having a break. So I pulled over and we had a good ‘ol chat. They had sent a dry parcel of food to Eucla as they are on push bikes. It is a good idea but they did it from New Zealand so how long it takes to get there could be a guess. They didn’t track it, so can’t be sure if it arrives, it probably will. I took a photo of them and then waved goodbye. They have a long ride ahead of them. Thankfully it is not hot today it is quite cool but they do have strong winds which makes it harder. I was thinking about the importance of food. They will have to sleep in the bush as they will not get to any towns easily out here.

I drove onto the Nullabor and this for me was the highlight. I am trying to mentally take in the trees, the gums the bushes of which I have no names, no botanical knowledge. I stopped and had a look at really stringy thick bark on the trees and these bushes with rubbery leaves which is good for retaining moisture. Little bushes everywhere but really nice. Sadly I saw rubbish at the side of the road and reflected at the lack of respect of people. I also noticed the community of Yatala I believe they are desert people and I think they were moved from Maralinga nuclear test site. There were stories of some returning to their land, they would have experienced exposure as it was a toxic desert. I was thinking the other day how governments can get away with destroying land making it radioactive with half lives of millions if not billions of years. Who says that is okay in the pursuit of weapons which are just statements of fear and distrust. I see a criminality there. Apparently the British government paid compensation to the Australian Government in the 1980’s, but how can they do that and not have that recorded as a crime against nature. We have war crimes, why not nature? We see nature as somehow inert, yet it is the very foundation of our life support systems, how is the military a support system, if anything it undermined human security as it creates more insecurity and fear. I really don’t understand it. I just made a mental note as I drove past this community.

I am now at a Whaling watching place. Apparently it is $5 to go through the door, I won’t be paying for my own country. I am told the whales left 4 days ago, so it doesn’t matter I will look at the exhibitions. Apparently the Southern Right Whales occur in the southern hemisphere, mostly south of the 30(degrees)South. According to information here they were hunted relentlessly in the early 1800s, numbers in Australia plummeted and in a matter of decades the population was reduced to a few hundred individuals or less. Protected internationally since 1935, the species has only recently recovered. They remain an endangered species, however numbers are increasing at 7-8% per year. Australia is home to around 1500 of the 7000 Southern Right whales remaining worldwide. This is a fraction of the estimated 60,000 to 100,000 that existed prior to whaling. The Head of the Bight is a critical area for the Southern Right Whales 10% of the global population using this area. Each year between 25 and 45 calves are born at or near the Head of Bight, making it one of the three largest breeding areas on the Australian coast (courtesy of Whale Centre)

I think of the Japanese scientific whaling and the Norwegians (well known around the world for being peacemakers). Yet a corner of that society is still seeking to continue whaling. There doesn’t seem to be any awareness of the importance of these creatures and honouring their presence in these whaling circles. They have a sophisticated song and form strong bonds with each other.

Just met a lovely couple travelling Australia they did 13,000km with their two dogs. It was quite funny her dog went nuts over the bells on my keys, that is how we met. She said the dog is really intelligent and just has to know what that noise is. Sure enough when I went up to the dog it just about broke its neck to check out the bells, it sounded vicious but was actually curious. How funny is that, it brought the lady and I together to talk about life.

Her husband came on over, they were curious about my car, they liked it. The husband took a redundancy and the wife suspended her job. They decided why wait until we are old like the grey brigades, let’s live now. They are travelling and looking for a place to live. They are loving the life and realised you don’t need much. They realise that materialism is not the way and they are thinking to live in a town and get a little vegie patch and have a lovely life.

Sounds good to me. Gave them a hug and now I am off to Western Australia.

Life is great, loving it.