Penong SA to Madura WA

The Nullabor is famous here in Australia as a desolate place and you can only wonder how the Indigenous survived.  I am guessing there were underground caves and they would have mapped it out.  There is a beauty in the emptiness and treeless Nullabor.  You can easily imagine if you broke down, how would you survive without the technology?  That question tells me the greatness of the indigenous people who I increasingly feel an awe for.  Yet they appear an invisible people only seen with alcohol and drug problems thanks to our civilisation, yet they were indeed a great people, and still are in my view.  Here is a brief overview of my experience crossing this vast stretch and heading into Western Australia.

 I travelled from Penong to Nullabor Roadhouse across the Nullabor Plain. Petrol prices ranged from 1.80 to 2.10 per litre. The Nullabor was incredibly flat and only salt bush, the occasional tree was visible to the horizon. It is a place that has little water and the aboriginals could not settle there. They only walked across it when they could access water. It is vast and interesting that the climate only supports bushes. Some of them are dry looking clumpy bushes, others are vivid greens. Really beautiful I felt. I loved traveling through it.

I stopped and collected some rocks from the side of the road. This is a little pastime of mine to connect with the planet, I actually feel quite drawn to do this. What I noticed about the rocks I picked up today is that they had dots on them. I wondered if the idea to do aboriginal dot paintings came from seeing dots in the landscape. We are all influenced by our surroundings. It was really interesting to stop in places where no-one was to be seen. Although I have to say I saw plastic bottles, this amazes me. Always rubbish around. I’ve seen worse overseas but in Australia I would think there was more consciousness given all the campaigns.

I drove along the Great Australian Bight. The GPS showed me I am close to the cliffs. So I went looking for places to stop. Found a little place and walked along a dirt road to the cliffs and was greeted by a spectacular view. It was funny as I refused to pay $5 to see cliffs at the Whale watching place. I thought it is my country should be free. Further down the road my dream came true and I found myself looking at around 100km’s of coast line of sheer cliffs, made me think of Ireland although not green. They were beautiful cliffs that weaved down the coast. Very high a few hundred metres. The ocean was such a pale blue near the coastline. I just kept thinking about this is where Australia stops, there is nothing like cliffs to give you the ‘lands end’ feel. I got close to the edge and then to my amazement saw dolphins, then I thought they were sharks as they didn’t seem to break the water. Then one did and I knew they were about 50 dolphins. Wow I didn’t see whales today but I did see dolphins, very exciting. I also saw a lizard and got a close up and some large grass hoppers that looked like small birds. I even saw a large orange wasp at the Whale Watching place, it didn’t sting but looked really beautiful.

I just marvel at nature and feel so happy to have this opportunity of traveling. I really love it. The car has been going so well.

I ended up crossing the Western Australian border, going through Quarantine, I was surprised to learn that they take all fresh produce something about fungi’s causing problems. South Australia also has Quarantine. So there are ongoing sensitivities about fungi’s, bacteria’s and fruit fly. I gave up my fresh fruit and veg and headed on. I was looking to stop somewhere and camp. I passed Eucla and then saw a sign saying the next town was 60km, turns out it was a Roadhouse. I then travelled onto Madura which also appears to be a Roadhouse and motel.

It has been raining today so wasn’t sure if I could camp. Thankfully I drove further and did find a place and it wasn’t wet. It is getting cool now but all is well, I am warm enough.

When I first arrived I enquired about the campsite and was told $10. Then the other motorcycle couple who came in asked and she said sorry no rooms. She did it with a straight face and this guy was so tired, his face dropped. Then she indicated she was joking. I then asked her about dinner, she says the dining room has no food, honestly she did it with such a straight face, she was believable. I said at first I don’t believe you it is like the boy who cried wolf, lying to the first customer. But she did convince me and I cracked up laughing. I loved her sense of humour. Funny girl.

I set up camp in the dark and had to laugh as I put the fly on the wrong way, so my zip has a window and the outside zip has an inside wire netting. Oh well doesn’t matter, I can crawl under the wall to get in. I set up as per usual and in record time.

Had a chat with a German woman living in Launceston, Tasmania. She said it was a lovely place to live although housing prices have gone up from $80,000 to $300,000. blows my mind at the greed of Real Estate agents. How do people afford their own home these days. I just marvel at it. She and her husband and son are traveling together in small tents. Her son has travelled from Port Augusta on a little 250 which would be a slow trip and hard work. It is about 900km. Long ride. She said she was a doctor and what I found interesting in her vocation is that she said she chose it at age 4. can you imagine knowing what you want to do at 4. She said she had measles and she was made well and that is when she decided. Loves it she said. I noticed driving in here that there were airstrip markings on the road. The Royal Flying Doctor Service can use the straight roads as airstrips. Good idea I thought and practical. There are no doctors in the rural areas, they fly one in every fortnight and the nurses are called doctor nurses this nice doctor told me.

I went to buy dinner and they have a $10 minimum for Eftpos. The dinner is $9.50, I asked her if she was giving me 50 cents, she could see no way. I said it is not the money of 50 cents it is the principle that I don’t want to spend $10, I am choosing to spend $9.50, a conversation about bank charges ensued and I said they should be removed. I do think if we knew much was taken from the public by way of fees and inflexible Eftpos charges and other add on’s I am sure there would be revolution. It is taken in small bits so no-one notices. I notice. Anyway, I just had to go with it as I was having dinner and that was that.

So now I am in my tent and feeling quite tired. It was a beautiful day, the sun, clouds, rain, landscapes were just wonderful. I just love nature so much. I feel so happy that I am here.

I did hear a fan belt whirring sound just now as I moved my car. I will listen again in the morning and may have to get roadside assistance to advise me. I still have another 1,000km to go, so the old girl has to make it, perhaps the butterflies bring me luck.

Anyway off to sleep and to explore Western Australia. I must remember to find out where Shark Bay is and the stromatolites, the oldest living oxygen source on planet earth. That is worth checking out.